No fog here

As the UK is covered with a thick blanket of fog, we have clear blue skies and sunshine. Luckily the Christmas house guests are getting through: Lancashire and Cambridgeshire arrived on time on Wednesday; Berkshire changed plans and drove on Thursday; Gothenburg arrived with only an hours delay in the end yesterday. Just the London contingent to arrive tonight. Here's hoping they get through.

Back to work on the reserves of Vitamin D; and then off to Nyons this afternoon to do some shopping. And sit in a cafe and rejoice that we're not battling the crowds (and the fog) on Oxford Street.

And the weather forecast is set fair for at least the next three days. So we'll be able to do aperitifs on the terrace on Christmas Day.

In the moment or by the clock?

I'm not sure whether this is city versus rural, or France versus England, but in the week I've been back in London I've been noticing some differences. In France, back at Le Colombier, everything helps you to be "in the moment" - whatever that moment is. It might be about the seasons, or the weather, or market day, or aperitif time, or coffee on the terrace. The moment is as long as it takes. If it's fine, you sit outside. If it's raining, you stay in.

There are a few things you need to be aware of in terms of time; shops close for lunch; lunch is served between 12.00 and 2.00 so if you want lunch out you to have to remember to be in time. But of course it's only city-basd foreigners who would ever want to eat outside of the main eating moments.

Whereas in London life is ruled by the clock, agendas, plans. You can shop and eat 24/7. The weather was really bad the other day - cold, windy, heavy rain; but everyone still carried on rushing from a to b, getting to work, coming back from work, rushing between meetings, going to the gym, getting to that class, going Christmas shopping, meeting up with friends, remembering the train schedules and the last tube home. And texts and phone calls on the ever present mobile to schedule, reschedule, plan and replan. All commuters hear the mobile phone "I'm on the train" refrain day in, day out.

Cafes proudly display there wi-fi zone notices; laptops jostle with the latte and americanos; and busy busy executives are grouped around the tables in earnest conversation, jostling files and papers, or on their phones.

Whereas sitting outside La Belle Epoque in Nyons, you just watch the world go by. It's a cafe moment. And probably in the sun.

Pan's Labyrinth

I'm in London at the moment, but decided to take advantage of a wet and windy afternoon (tornados in North London) to take myself off to the Ritzy cinema. This is a great art cinema in Brixton (just a short bus ride from me in Vauxhall), and usually has something "foreign" that's worth seeing. So yesterday's treat was Pan's Labyrinth:

Director: Guillermo Toro Origin: Spain Year: 2006 Duration: 119m Starring: Ariadna Gil, Maribel Verdu, Doug Jones, Ivana Baquero, Sergi Lopez

A fairy tale for adults inspired by the paintings of Francisco Goya and rooted, like THE DEVIL'S BACKBONE, in the context of war, this is del Toro's most accomplished work in his own opinion. In 1940s Spain, recently remarried Carmen (Gil) and daughter Ofelia (Baquero) move in with the cold and authoritarian new husband, Vidal (López), a captain in General Franco's army. Finding her new life difficult, Ofelia seeks refuge in a labyrinth she discovers next to the house. A magical creature named Pan, the guardian of the labyrinth, reveals that Ofelia is the long-lost princess of a magical kingdom. To discover the truth, she will have to accomplish three dangerous tasks. Del Toro's startling vision rests on a profoundly moving story with universal appeal.



It was slightly odd seeing it subtitled into English - I'm more used to seeing French subtitles! But well worth seeing.

One thing that I did notice was that in France, at the end of the film, most people sit through the music and the credits at the end - "respect" to the makers of the film. Here in London, people were putting on their coats and leaving as the first credits started to roll. And people were coming in for the next showing before the credits had finished.

Traditional Christmas fare in Provence

I'm trying to do some research into the traditional food for Christmas in Provence.

I've spent Christmas in the Beaujolais region (around Macon and Lyon) and there we would have the "reveillon" after midnight mass ... a full meal, at 2.00am! However, I think that's one tradition I'll avoid - especially as we will be doing a more traditional English style Christmas lunch of turkey with all the trimmings.

But I've just found this about Christmas traditions in Provence.

The "great supper" is eaten on Christmas Eve, before going to midnight mass. Everything is minutely prepared. Each dish has its own symbolism and numbers are important :

The table has 3 white tablecloths - 3 for the 3 members of the Trinity – with 3 white lighted candelabras and 3 saucers of sprouted wheat germs planted on St. Barbe's Day. Absolutely no mistletoe believed to bring bad luck&!

The "great supper" is paradoxically made up of 7 lean dishes in memory of the 7 sufferings of Mary. It is served with 13 bread rolls followed by the 13 desserts, which represent the Last Supper with Jesus and the 12 apostles.
These lean dishes differ from one part of Provence to another. The dishes often served are chard stalks and celery, cauliflower, spinach and cod, omelette, snails, garlic soup & but never any meat, simply fish, shellfish, gratins, vegetables, soups and anchoïade (anchovy paste). The only abundance is that of the thirteen desserts.

The thirteen desserts are eaten after Midnight mass. They will remain on the table for the following 3 days, until 27th December:

the 4 mendicant (orders): dry figs (Franciscans), almonds (Carmelites), raisins (Dominicans) and hazelnuts (Augustinians), dates: symbol of Christ who came from the Orient, nougat (black and white) for the white penitents and black penitents according to some people, while for others white nougat, soft and creamy represents purity and goodness, the harder and brittle black nougat symbolising impurity and forces of evil& the "fougasse à l'huile d'olive", also called "la pompe": a flat loaf made using olive oil, quince cheese or crystallised fruit in the Apt or Carpentras regions, "oreillettes": light thin waffles, fresh fruit: mandarin oranges, oranges, pears, raisins and winter melons preserved for the occasion.

Cooking in Provence

I'm getting into this blogging; and starting to think about all sorts of ways I can use the tools to help me.

So I've set up another blog - Cooking in Provence - to help me keep track of ideas for food, recipes and so on. You're welcome to check in on this one too - and add comments and your favourite recipes too.

Plumbers

I was right when I said that anything to do with plumbers was always expensive.

They arrived - and quickly discovered that it wasn't just a problem of a bit of glue; there was also a blockage in the drains.

I now have a large trench in the lawn from the terrace to the grey water tank; a pipe that's got an uphill slope (hence the blockage) and now various holes ...

So the plumbers will be back for the third day to do some major renovations - including installing a grease trap. Seems a bit excessive for 2 dishwashers and 3 kitchen sinks, but with sceptic tanks etc. its best to be prepared.

One thing seems to be universal in terms of plumbing, drains and crises: lots of peering into holes, shaking of heads, mutterings, and blaming of whatever idiot did the work in the first place.

But no need to provide mugs of tea every half hour!

At least the new dishwasher is doing its job.

Hexagram 37: Dwelling People

Elaine's stay last week had me looking through my bookshelves for her, as she'd just completed a course in hypnosis (I qualified in hypnotherapy and nlp a few years ago). And my books on the I Ching - the Oracle of Change - came back into focus after a few years of gathering dust.

So active in the pursuit of displacement activity, instead of writing my chapter, I thought I'd consult the Oracle with a question about le Colombier.

So what's the I Ching? A book I'd recommend is How to Use the I Ching by Stephen Karcher. As it says on the cover, "The ancient Chinese oracle, the I Ching, helps you work with the changes in your life. Its images and practical advice let you participate in change instead of being its victim. It acts like a wise old friend or helping spirit".

Stephen explains in the foreword: "The I Ching is one of the world's oldest and most profound divination systems, a powerful tool which can help you navigate the voyage of your life. It helps you to see the forces that are shaping difficult situations, and to understand the meaning of obstacles. It keeps you connected to the creative process of life. It brings out your helping spirit, the inner voice that helps you find your way."

First you create a question or a statement that you want to work with. Then using one of three methods (coins, sticks or stones) you follow a formula that brings you up one of the 64 Hexagrams, which will give you readings - or divinations - about your situation or question.

So as I'm here in Le Colombier, and would quite like some wise guidance on how things will work out, my questions was "How do I attract great people to Le Colombier?"

And my answer was Hexagram 37: Dwelling People.

"This is a group of people living and working together, a family or clan with ties of feeling between them. Care for your relationships with people, and the space you share with others. Profit and insight come through the woman and the yin. Accept, nourish, care for things. Thus warmth and clarity will spread throughout the dwelling and affect all people. Dwelling means staying inside the net of feelings and relationships. Use your words to connect with people. A woman's attitude can correct the inside; a man's attitude can correct the outside. Together they reflect the great way of heaven and earth. Clarify each person's position so they know who and what they are. In this way, you can set the whole world right."

As the I Ching is about change, additional insight can be drawn from the "transforming" lines. I had three.

The Six at Second - "release what you have to give without a direction. Locate yourself in the centre and feed the people. Divination: the way is open." This is explained as the place of the one who nourishes all the people in the dwelling, giving without imposing on others. Act like this, and the way will be open.

Nine at Third included a warning that this is a time for strict measures and discipline to put the house in order. If you let things go, you will lose the way.

And Six at Fourth shows that it is an affluent dwelling, the Great way is open. For an affluent dwelling is where the good flows for all. The way is certainly open. Let the flow of riches serve a real purpose.

What an amazingly matched response to my question!

And hold on the language of "flow" and discipline to put the house in order. I've just flowed a gin and tonic into a glass after an afternoon with the plumbers. More to follow on that later ...

Sante!

Just in Time, or Be Prepared?

Those who know me know that I'm a Just in Time kind of gal - the fact that I'm busy blogging instead of getting down to writing a 6000 word chapter for a book that has a deadline of this Thursday points to this.

But somehow I have learnt that I can't get away with last minute laissez faire habits here at Le Colombier.

For example. You've been basking in the sunshine in late September, and wham, bang, overnight the temperatures plummet to below freezing and before you know it an outside valve has sheered in half and you've an expensive crisis on your hands. Crisis because water is spraying out from the inlet to the mains water, you've got a house full of people and you have to turn off the mains water. So you've got to get the plumbers in - and fast.

Expensive - because you've got to get the plumbers in - and fast.

(The fact that nobody had warned you that you need to make sure that exposed taps are drained and insulation is in place from early September is neither here nor there - any fool knows that, it goes without saying).

Returning to the house after a 9 day house rental by a group of 17 German cyclists and opening the dishwasher, it was obvious that German efficiency in dishwasher stacking meant that they had managed to get all their breakfast stuff in, and all washed beautifully. But I don't do efficient dishwasher stacking - and with the knowledge of the Christmas house party fast approaching, a second dishwasher would help. (Plus the old one is temperamental at the best of times).

With great forethought, during the restauration of the house and fitting out the kitchen, we'd pre-planned an area and the plumbing for a second installation.

In a "Just in Time" frame of mind I'd probably have waited till my return here from London on the 17th December to go and order one. In fact, Just in Time shopping is the norm not the exception here. Local, family-owned shops mean goods are held in stock, the white van is parked round the back, and I've had beds and freezers etc delivered on the day of ordering.

But I've learnt! And my developing "Be Prepared" personna called me to action.

On Friday I got Seb (my local Handy Andy but with soul, philosophy, an eye for what will work, and French artistic cool) to move the old dishwasher into the never-before used place. Of course the work surface was 2 mm too low, so it involved the inevitable chiselling out of plaster etc etc to get it to fit. A minor detail - and I was expecting it.

Later that afternoon I filled aforesaid old dishwasher with the accumulated crockery, flicked the switch to on, and went off to do something else. (There was a lot of accumulated washing up as I was in full "Be Prepared" mode and cooking cakes for the invading hordes.)

I came back to find a mini-flood where a cap on the out-flow pipes hadn't been glued in place and so was "blowing" geyser like as the water was pumping out. So a wet floor, and a dishwasher of dirty washing up. But thankfully this was still a month before Christmas.

I ordered the new dishwasher Saturday for delivery on Tuesday morning (ie today). Yesterday I got Seb to glue the aforesaid cap in place, let it dry, flicked the switch, watched to make sure the initial pumping was flood-free, and went off to do some work.

Mistake! I came down 15 mins before going out to dinner to find the kitchen floor completely awash. Another join lower down had obviously not been glued in place either.

So the plumbers are coming this afternoon. And I get to practise my French - and my patience.

And the new machine hasn't arrived yet either ... its delivery has been delayed until this afternoon. At least the floor has more or less dried out.

La Charette Bleue

OK, so I just can't resist the chance to go out and eat. It's Sue and Graham's last night - so they're off to the Charette Bleue. I'd originally said no ... but with a little nudge my resolve crumbled.

Not that I have to go far - this restaurant is literally 50 metres away from Le Colombier. So no worrying about who has to drive.

It's great food. When Martin is around (to follow the Tour de France - another story) he has a standing (or should that be sitting?) reservation.

.....

a little later

so what did I choose? I went for the 24 euro menu (so sharing a bottle of wine between three of us my bill came to 30 euros). Graham went for the garlic mussels (think snails in garlic butter, but substitute small shelled mussels, and serve like the snails in those little dishes with 6 to 8 holes and you get the picture ... great way to get your fix of garlic butter; you could also substitute mushrooms and get the same effect). But I resisted as I wanted to try a new starter of warm poached pears served with soft fresh goats cheese, lightly grilled to warm through and just slightly brown, served on the mandatory mixed leaves, and a drizzle of rich balsamic vinegar reduction. Really good!

As I was trying to stick to the lowest price menu I skipped over the fillet of venison (like steak, you have to decide whether you want it saignant, a point or bien cuit) - served with chestnuts and a thick pumpkin puree. I also said no to the lamb, the cod, the tajine of monkfish and prawns ... and happily tucked into a roasted stuffed supreme (fillet) of guinea fowl served with quince crisps and on a bed of lightly stir fried savoy cabbage and bacon bits. (On the cheapest menu yes, but I didn't feel at all deprived).

And then time for cheese; local goats cheeses, reblochon, munster, a blue cheese. Well, we had to finish off the bottle of 2004 domaine de moulin Vinsobres..

Still on the pear theme, I had an amazingly tender poached pear in its individual almond sponge dessert, served with pear ice-cream in a little brandy snap basket.

It'll be soup for the rest of the week.

Le Petit Caveau

Got to be the best restaurant in Nyons. And beats anywhere I've eaten in London. So what did I have yesterday?

Aperitif served with olives, and nibbles of quails eggs, olive madeleines, and a small chilled soup of broccoli and cauliflower. Then an amuse-bouche of a "canneloni" of squid stuffed with boudin (white blood sausage - but made with the squid ink; sounds weird but was really good). As a starter I had the partridge stuffed with foie gras; I went for the veal as the main. And a dessert of citrus fruits - pink grapefruit sorbet, gingerbread, poached clementine ...

And to drink, an aperitif of cremant de die with apricot liqueur and cinammon; a dry white Vacqueras with the starter; and a glass of Domaine des Rieux Freres (Sainte Jalle) cabernet sauvignon. The red was really full on! The vineyard is about 15 kilometres from Le Colombier into the mountains. They do a good white as well as everyday "bag in the box" wines.

One of the things I really like about food here is that it is based on fresh seasonal food. Mind you, it helps to be adventurous and be prepared to try new things. And anyway, it's market research to recommend places for my clients to go and try for themselves.

Contes de Provence

My professional interests include personality preferences, myths and archetypes a well as multi-cultural team working. So I was really delighted to find Jungian syncronicity at work with an evening "presentation" on Provencal folklore tales given by a "conteur" in Venterol on Friday evening (a friend Sue has a house in Venterol. It was through Sue that I got to know the area, and started on the journey to living the dream).

Leaving my house guest to check out the pastis at the local bar with Graham (Sue's bloke), Sue and I went off to the salle de fete to listen to the conteur - Jean Guillon (www.jeanguillon.conteur.free.fr) - take us on a journey through some of the local tales of Provence. We met the host of characters including the Drac of Draginon and the local giant Johan de l'Ours who, in true hero tradition - and the help of the magic potion from his mother - slays the seven-headed "mother of all dragons", overcomes the treachery of his so-called mates, and wins the hand of the princess and the lands of her father.

No magic effects, light or music, just the conteur and his skills. You could really feel part of a tradition of centuries.

I hear that Jackanory is coming back to the BBC - wonder whether it will be simple story telling? There was a little lad in the audience on Friday - and apart from a bit of fidgeting at the beginning, he really got into it ... and happily contributed his views about bees liking honey (not just bears); and there being wolves in the forest ... you had to be there ...

A day in the mountains

Autumn's been really mild so far this year and the colours are amazing. If you haven't been here this time of the year before, you really don't expect it.

So we took a day out today and drove up through the mountains to Saillans, on the banks of the Drome. Last time I was there was earlier in August with a group, for a day's canoeing and kayaking. There was a bit more water this time, far fewer people, and it was much colder! And the call of the plat de jour at le Tunnel was more appealing than a wet suit and a guaranteed capsize or two!

The bill for lunch came to under 30 euros for 2 - for a salmon tart starter, cardomum beef with bean sprouts, and lemon pie, bread and wine.

The area round Saillans and Die is known for its sparkling wines - the Cremant and Clairette de Die. So of course we stopped off at the vineyard of Jean-Claude Raspail (www.raspail.com) to stock up the cave for Christmas. Family owned, the production is all organic, with state of the art production facilities. After tasting the wines, practising my french, and being given a tour of the facilities, we loaded our goodies into the car and set off back.

So even at the end of November, there's plenty to do here. If you want reviews of the wines, see Cork'd (www.corkd.com and the username chateaucolombier).

Films in Nyons

Nyons is the small market town of about 7000 inhabitants about 8 kilometres from Le Colombier. We have a fantastic 2-screen art-house cinema that shows a great variety of films from across the world.

Had fun seeing the Queen - in English / subtitled in French. Well worth seeing. The evening before we had seen the Cannes prize-winning Chinese film "Luxury Car" by director Wang Chao - quite a contrast. And this Monday saw the Finnish film "Les lumieres des faubourgs" (not sure of the English title) by director Aki Karismaki. I'm glad I have the light and colours of Provence to wake up to every morning.

Chateau Colombier starts to blog

It's been a busy year for Chateau Colombier in 2006. So far we've welcomed visitors from the UK, France, USA, and Germany. Now we're preparing for Christmas. This will be time for family to visit - with the addition of a group of artists and their friends from Gothenburg, Sweden.

The weather continues to treat us well. Bright and sunny, and although we've had overnight frosts, they quickly clear and it's tee-shirt weather till the sun goes down. And then it's inside to autumn soups and log fires. Bliss.

This will be an occasional blog - to give you a taste of what you can expect through the different seasons here at Le Colombier in the Drome Provencal, France.